《我沒有神經,只最近穿得有點Vetements!》

 

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時尚圈最近陷入一股失調的潮流,能有這種魔力將一件寫著DHL的T-Shirt炒到幾千銀,那條想買也買不到的「天價牛仔褲」,以及令每個人隻袖長到似失心瘋的特長袖(Extra-Long-Sleeves)地通街走的;給俑者就是近期火紅的品牌Vetements和設計師Demna Gvasalia的陰謀。

自Demna Gvsalia為Balenciaga掌舵之後媒體聲音不斷,一面說醜卻一面地追捧報導。這種神又是你,鬼亦是你的迴響,與當年Hedi Slimane加入Yves Saint Laurent情況一樣。創立不到兩年的Vetements迅速成為全球時裝者的追捧對象,上季火紅得街知巷聞的DHL TEE,連DHL 的LOGO設計師也在網上發言:「用200歐買一件我們原本的工作服的人!一定是瘋了!」

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瘋的事又何止這樣。曾被Martin Margiela薰陶的Demna,更將師父的獨門絕招「失心瘋袖」重回秀台!說是失心瘋袖是好正確的,因為這種設計的確源於中世紀的精神病患及囚犯的束身服,來限制他們的動作。這種比例失調,看似不符合主流審美的誇張設計,卻從G-Dragon到Rihanna都爭先追逐。

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所以,那天在我把一張自己認為很入流的照片上載到FACEBOOK之後,晚上我收到了家母遠來的短訊:「阿仔!記得工作多忙都好,記得注意飲食和休息!因為呢,我見到你今日UPLOAD的那張相我心裡好擔心,好地地一套衣服居服穿到這樣出街,係咪最近壓力太大呢?」

 

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是的,其實要穿成這樣走出街,的確很大精神負擔的。雖然,我以前又真有講過愛穿什麼就穿吧!可是現在人算是明白了多點事理,多理了旁人感受,好人好者收埋隻手又真的不太得體。所以為免得失身邊家人朋友,以及一班人走在街上被人掩掩咀笑,當日出街食飯還是把袖捲返上幾吋,等大家行街食飯都得安安樂樂。

但是我又怎麼跟我媽解釋我沒有精神病,只最近穿得有點Vetements!

(此文將刊登於2016年10月刊 SD Magazine)

梁衍奇 Inky Leong

梁衍奇先生從2014年開創Inky Store 時尚精品店、I.N.K本地原創服裝設計品牌、達星國際項目有限公司、墨泉時尚文化有限公司;經營多個門市及公司營運團隊,從事美容、服飾、餐飲、原創品牌、珍稀奢侈品,項目投資策劃;積極投入時尚產業。澳門首位多次受邀出席國際多個名牌時裝週,擔任各大品牌的客席造型師及區域媒體時尚領導。2017年受委任「澳門時尚文化協會」副會長,為澳門時尚文化產業大力推行,積極參與社會公益慈善活動,培養社會對時尚的教育,引領著澳門時尚的影響力,以及全球時尚文化交流。

 Inky Leong, Founder and Executive Director. Since 2014, Inky has founded "Inky Store", the fashion boutique, "I.N.K", the local original fashion design brand, 達星國際項目有限公司 and 墨泉時尚文化有限公司.He operates a number of stores and company, engaged in a variety of industries, including: beauty, apparel, catering, original brand, rare luxury goods and project investment planning.

 Nevertheless, he also actively participates in the fashion industry. He is the first one in Macau that has been invited to attend several international fashion weeks, and also has been served as a guest stylist and regional media fashion leader for major brands.

In 2017, he was appointed as the Vice President of the Macao Fashion Culture Association. In order to promote Macao fashion culture, he actively participates in all kinds of social charity activities, to let the society increase their sense towards fashion, which has caused good influences to Macao fashion industry and led the communication between the global fashion culture to a different level.

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